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Of all the mysteries of the Arts & Crafts movement, one that is most confounding is why so many top makers signed only some of their work.   It is sometimes possible to match an unsigned piece with its maker by examining catalogs, log sheets, old photographs, correspondence, receipts, etc.  And some unsigned pieces, like those of Edward Oakes, have enough pronounced idiosyncratic features that they can be attributed to him without much doubt.

Oakes?  Hale?  This pin is nicely designed and made but unsigned.

 

Still, it seems strange that accomplished makers would labor painstakingly and create beautiful decorative works of art, and then forget to sign them -- especially when they signed other works.  This suggests that there was a conscious reason behind the omission.  Modesty aside, the piece could have been experimental, or may have been commissioned by someone who insisted that the name be left off, or possibly was not up to the maker's standards. 

 

Unsigned pin magnified 5x.  The detail and craftsmanship are impressive.  Why would the maker want anonymity?

 

(Pin actual size)

 

We see many well made and beautiful pieces that lack any kind of signature.  The locket below is such an object.  It is heavy, balanced, and beautifully made.  And the details are striking -- while bales are often added as mere appliances, this one is inset with onyx and decorated with pearls.  In fact, some aspects hint that the maker might have been Oakes.  But until any documentation appears, this will simply be a fine unsigned Arts & Crafts piece by a master jeweler.

 

Unsigned sash pin. Note repousse "bumps" at corners.

Unsigned sash pin.  Note repousse "bumps" at corners.

 

We also find lots of unsigned brass and copper sash pins that resemble the work of the Forest Craft Guild, Frost, Carence Crafters, and the Marshall Field Craft Shops.  Curiously, many of these have four repousse "bumps" at the corners.  It is possible to make reasonable guesses about the makers based on the design, different styles of hammering around the edges, clasps, stones (especially with Forest Craft Guild pieces), and workmanship.  But the ones shown here will remain minor mysteries.

 

Typical mark:

[none]

 

Item

Description

Size

Marks

Locket, hand wrought in 14K gold with large central moonstone surrounded by 12 pearls alternating with 8 four-sided black onyx plaques. Applied bead and wire work. Bale is decorated with diamond-shaped black onyx and two small seed pearls. Excellent craftsmanship. Heavy.

Locket, hand wrought in 14K gold with large central moonstone surrounded by 12 pearls alternating with 8 four-sided black onyx plaques. Applied bead and wire work.  Bale is decorated with diamond-shaped black onyx and two small seed pearls.  Excellent craftsmanship.  Heavy.

2-1/8" H and 1-1/4" W (including bale)

[unsigned]

Locket, opened, hand wrought in 14K gold with large central moonstone surrounded by 12 pearls alternating with 8 four-sided black onyx plaques. Applied bead and wire work. Bale is decorated with diamond-shaped black onyx and two small seed pearls. Excellent craftsmanship. Heavy.

Locket, 14K gold, (above) opened.  Not only is the outside beautifully crafted, but the hinge works perfectly, and friction fit between the halves is precise and mechanically sound.

 
Brooch / pin, 14K gold, tapering frame with rounded ends and curving bulge in middle, centering a round bezel-set opal, with extensive detailed openwork of leaves and spiraling vines with gold beads at ends.

Brooch / pin, 14K gold, tapering frame with rounded ends and curving bulge in middle, centering a round bezel-set opal, with extensive detailed openwork of leaves and spiraling vines with gold beads at ends.  Pictured on p. 100 of Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Edition, by Christie Romero.  Reminiscent of Hale.

2-1/16" L and 1/2" W

 
14K

Brooch / pin, gold, long and narrow, with rounded corners, and three oval bezel-set turquoise stones on thick flat wire frame, surrounded by veined, detailed leaves and gold wirework vines and beads.

Brooch / pin, gold, long and narrow, with rounded corners, and three oval bezel-set turquoise stones on thick flat wire frame, surrounded by veined, detailed leaves and gold wirework vines and beads.  The stones are matched in size but not color.

2-1/8" L and 3/8" W

14K

Pin, with gold details on a silver frame, centering large oval faceted citrine, and surrounded by detailed applied curling gold vines, bunches of grapes, and chased leaves on a frame that tapers at the ends. Elegant, precise workmanship. Possibly by Hale or Oakes.

Pin, with gold details on a silver frame, centering large oval faceted citrine, and surrounded by detailed applied curling gold vines, bunches of grapes, and chased leaves on a frame that tapers at the ends.  Elegant, precise workmanship. 

2-1/2" L and 7/16" H

[unsigned]

Brooch / pin, sterling, centering dark oval bezel-set turquoise or malachite stone with beads and chased leaves at the corners, on wire oval frame with graduated row of beads and a chased leaf at each end, terminating with a larger bead.

Brooch / pin, sterling, centering dark oval bezel-set turquoise or malachite stone with beads and chased leaves at the corners, on wire oval frame with  graduated row of beads and a chased leaf at each end, terminating with a larger bead.  Nicely made.

2-9/16" W and 7/16" H

[unsigned]

Bar pin, handwrought in 14K gold with central green amazonite cabochon flanked by small grape leaves with nice details.

Bar pin, handwrought in 14K gold with central green amazonite cabochon flanked by small grape leaves with nice details.

1-1/8" W

[unsigned]

Brooch, silver, rectangular frame with orange translucent tear-shaped bezel-set cabochon stones and a similar round stone at center, with leaves, curling silver stems and silver bead ornament. Frame is worked to look like wood grain.

Brooch, silver, rectangular frame with orange translucent tear-shaped bezel-set cabochon stones and a similar round stone at center, with leaves, curling silver stems and silver bead ornament.  Frame is worked to look like wood grain.

1-15/16" L and 1/2" W

STERLING / GERMANY

Brooch, silver, rectangular frame with two tear-shaped bezel-set faceted amethyst stones at the ends and a similar round stone at center, with leaves, curling silver stems and silver bead ornament. Worked frame.

Brooch, silver, rectangular frame with two tear-shaped bezel-set faceted amethyst stones at the ends and a similar round stone at center, with leaves, curling silver stems and silver bead ornament.   Worked frame.

1-13/16" L and 3/8" W

925

Brooch, brass, with acid-etched and oxidized abstract wagon-wheel design, centering round cabochon bezel-set red stone.

Brooch, brass, with acid-etched and oxidized abstract wagon-wheel design, centering round cabochon bezel-set red stone.

1-7/16" W and 1-5/16" H

[unmarked]

Unsigned brooch / pin, composed of five irregular bezel-set baroque pearls in a row each with two silver beads between them.

Brooch / pin, composed of five irregular bezel-set baroque pearls in a row each with two silver beads between them.

2-1/8" L and 1/4" W

STERLING

Unsigned brooch / pin, silver, with moonstones and pearls. Roughly triangular in shape, with the top two sides curving down and ending in small spirals centering round moonstones, connected to a large central oval bezel-set moonstone with angled supports. Two other oval moonstones flank a large pearl at the top set in a scalloped bezel, and have two smaller pearls below them. Piece is decorated with rows of silver beads that have had the tops flattened.

Brooch / pin, silver, with moonstones and pearls.  Roughly triangular in shape, with the top two sides curving down and ending in small spirals centering round moonstones, connected to a large central oval bezel-set moonstone with angled supports.  Two other oval moonstones flank a large pearl at the top set in a scalloped bezel, and have two smaller pearls below them.  Piece is decorated with rows of silver beads that have had the tops flattened. 

1-13/16" W and 1-1/16" H

[unmarked]

Unsigned barpin, silver, with pearl. Bar pin with soft, arrow-shaped ends centering a bezel-set freeform pearl flanked on both sides by an applied silver trillium flower in a navette-shaped oxidized recess. Small deep chased horizontal line between flowers and ends.

Brooch / pin, silver, with pearl.  Bar pin with soft, arrow-shaped ends centering a bezel-set freeform pearl flanked on both sides by an applied silver trillium flower in a navette-shaped oxidized recess.  Small deep chased horizontal line between flowers and ends. 

2-9/16" L and 1/2" W

STERLING

Unsigned ring, sterling, centering oval bezel-set white, green, and orange cabochon moss agate stone. With v-shaped recesses on the sides tapering back to the shank, and small arrow-form recesses above and below the stone.

Ring, sterling, centering oval bezel-set white, green, and orange cabochon moss agate stone.  With v-shaped recesses on the sides tapering back to the shank, and small arrow-form recesses above and below the stone. 

11/16" W and 11/16" H and 13/16" D.  Size 4-1/4

[unsigned]

Brooch / pin, brass, triangular, with spiraling triangular line, centering green bezel-set stone. Very reminiscent of Frost or Forest Craft Guild.

Brooch / pin, brass, triangular, with spiraling triangular line, centering green bezel-set stone.  Very reminiscent of Forest Craft Guild.

1-1/4" H and 1-3/16" W

[unsigned]

Pin, brass, large, freeform oval shaped, with acid-etched geometric design and oxidized background centering bezel-set green oval stone. Four repousse bulges at the corners.

Pin, brass, large, freeform oval shaped, with acid-etched geometric design and oxidized background centering bezel-set green oval stone.  Four repousse bulges at the corners.

3" W and 2-1/4" H

[unsigned]

Pin, brass, large, butterfly-form, with acid-etched geometric design and rounded corners, centering dark blue round bezel-set stone

Pin, brass, large, butterfly-form, with acid-etched geometric design and rounded corners, centering dark blue round bezel-set stone

3-3/16" W and 1-3/4" H

[unsigned]

Pin, brass, heart-shaped with geometric acid-etched design centering oval green stone

Pin, brass, heart-shaped with geometric acid-etched design centering oval green stone

2-5/8" W and 2-5/16" H

[unsigned]

Pin, brass, large, rectangular, with acid-etched geometric design centering bezel-set blue stone. Four repousse bulges at the corners. Nice patina.

Pin, brass, large, rectangular, with acid-etched geometric design centering bezel-set blue stone.  Four repousse bulges at the corners.  Nice patina.

2-5/8" W and 1-15/16" H

[unsigned]

Pin, brass, large, freeform rectangular shaped, with acid-etched design centering light-blue copper-gold aventurine oval stone. Concave edges and notches at the corners.

Pin, brass, large, freeform rectangular shaped, with acid-etched design centering light-blue copper-gold aventurine oval stone.  Concave edges and notches at the corners.

2-3/8" W and 1-7/8"  H

[unsigned]

Pin, copper, round, with acid etched design and off-center round green cabochon bezel-set stone

Pin, copper, round, with acid etched design and off-center round green cabochon bezel-set stone

2" round

[unsigned]

Pin, brass, large, shield-shaped, with notched top, acid-etched geometric design centering light green oval bezel-set stone

Pin, brass, large, shield-shaped, with notched top, acid-etched geometric design centering light green oval bezel-set stone

2-3/8" W and 2-1/4" H

[unsigned]

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