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Pins with Stones (page 1) -- Kalo, like most Chicago Arts & Crafts metalsmiths, used a variety of semiprecious stones to decorate their work. The most common were moonstones (a milky white, transparent feldspar), amethysts (purple quartz), citrines (yellow quartz), topaz (yellow fluosilicate of aluminum), assorted types of chalcedony (quartz in the form of green chrysoprase, variegated agate, red carnelian, and onyx), lapis (a deep blue mineral stew based on silicate of aluminum), pink coral, turquoise (blue-green copper aluminum phosphate), jade (green calcium magnesium silicate or silicate of alumina and soda), light green peridot (chrysolite), dark red garnet, and amber.

 

Usually these were in cabochon (round and unfaceted) form, but some faceted stones were used. Virtually all stones were bezel-set, which means they were attached to the jewelry with a collar or flange running around the entire base rather than with prongs. Kalo also used enamel at times.

 

Typical mark:

 

Item

Description

Size

Marks

Brooch, bee with cats-eye cabochon. Wire work in the form of a bee with cats-eye cabochon and silver dome as the insect's body, silver beads for eyes.

2-1/8" L and 1-1/8" W

STERLING / KALO

Brooch / pin, gold, bar, centering oval cabochon bezel-set black opal, with three applied leaves on each side slightly overlapping the stone, and tapering side made to look as if they are "folded over" from top to bottom, with pointed ends

2-3/8" W and 3/8" H

14K KALO

Brooch / pin, with pearl. Central rectangular section with large oval bezel-set mabe pearl, gently curving top and bottom, carved arc above and below pearl with small tear-shaped cutouts at the ends. Square cutouts on each side leading to bars that flare to pointed ends.

2-3/8" W and 5/8" H

KALO STERLING

Brooch / pin, round, centering bullet-shaped bezel-set lapis stone. Chased circle around outside edge and three groups of two saw-pierced cutouts evenly spaced in a circular pattern around the edge.

1-3/16" round

STERLING KALO

Brooch / pin, large, oval, in the form of a single flower blossom with prominent central veins and subtle chased smaller veins on each of six petals, set in a saw-pierced and chased oval frame, and centering a cluster of berries and a bezel-set oval cabochon moonstone. Overall slight convex shape, and heavy.

2-1/4" W and 1-5/8" H

STERLING KALO / HAND / WROUGHT / 170

Pin, bar, with arrow-shaped designs at ends, bezel-set turquoise oval stone at center flanked by two applied silver flowers, small cutouts

3/8" H and 2-7/16" W

STERLING / KALO

Pin, bar, with cutout geometric pattern on sides, centering large square bezel-set yellow stone (citrine?), heavy for its size

5/8" H and 1-3/4"

STERLING KALO

Brooch / pin, older, centering a large faceted oval bezel-set topaz, with wing-like sides that have straight edges and a pointed, curved end. Small triangular and bar-shaped cutouts adjacent to the stone.

2-1/4" L and 3/8" H

STERLING KALO

Brooch / pin, oval, centering brown translucent "petoskey stone" -- fossilized glass-like coral from Lake Michigan, that reveals the old coral structure. With ropelike border.

1-1/2" W and 1-3/16" H

STERLING / KALO

Brooch / pin, with amethyst, older, composed of two arrow-shaped trapezoidal sides with raised edges and squared-off ends, centering an oval bezel-set cabochon amethyst stone.

2" W and 3/8" H

KALO / STERLING

Pin, bar, centering an oval blue bezel-set lapis cabochon stone flanked by two pairs of small rectangular vertical and then horizontal cutouts, with slightly flaring diagonal ends that are longer at the top and shorter at the bottom

2-1/16 W and 3/8" H

KALO / STERLING

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